Trapped in Iceland

I binge-watched Trapped the week before Daniel and I left for a long weekend in Iceland. I liked it because (1) I’m a sucker for murder mystery suspense series, and (2) the sweeping views and Icelandic rhetoric got me hyped for our trip.

Day 1: Arrive in Reykjavik and Drive to Air BnB

We took an overnight flight from Toronto that was comfortable and easy, but left us with about 2 hours of sleep and a long Thursday ahead. After landing at Keflavík International Airport (not to be confused with the Reykjavik Domestic Airport) we picked up the rental car and drove to Reykjavik to meet our friends. The 45 minute (50 km) drive turned into two hours because we hit rush hour traffic going into the city. Tip: Avoid driving to/from Reykjavik during rush hour. We watched the sunrise along the way, at around 9:30 a.m.

After collecting our friends and heading out of Reykjavik, we made two stops along the way: first to the Secret Lagoon and second, for lunch, at a greenhouse restaurant, Friðheimar.

The Secret Lagoon was pricier than expected – about $30 to enter into the natural hot spring and use the locker room. It was extra for a towel; tip: bring your own. But the noodles were fun and the water was hot and relaxing.

Lunch at Friðheimar was delicious. We tried the bottomless tomato soup and home baked bread, fresh ravioli with home made pasta sauce and pesto, and grilled tortillas (pizza) with tomato, basil and mozzarella. My friend ordered the Healthy Mary beverage; my one sip left me wishing I had ordered my own. Tip: order one.

Our Air BnB was in. The. Middle. Of. Nowhere.

It was a great spot for anyone looking for a remote, quiet getaway. I’m guessing it would be beautiful in the summer, too, with rolling green hills for miles and miles.

Day 2: Road Trip to Vik

On Friday, we got back in the car and headed to Vik. The ride was pretty and the views at Dyrhólaey, our final destination, were breathtaking. Black sand beach, snow capped volcanic rock, the waves crashing into the cliff, the sun shining through. My friend Mary mentioned that she could’ve stayed there for hours just staring out into the landscape and reflecting on what an incredible and glorious world we live in. I agree. Tip: if you visit in warmer weather, consider packing a lunch and making a picnic to take in the views.

On the way back we stopped at two waterfalls, Seljalandsfoss and Gullfoss, and the Geysir. I hate to be a waterfall snob, but when you live 20 minutes from Niagara Falls, all of the other falls in the world seem to just be… eh. Perhaps it was the freezing cold temperatures that only allowed us to run out of the car for a few minutes to catch a glimpse; I bet the all of the falls would be more fun in the summer when you can hike nearby and walk behind them.

The Geysir was my favorite stop on the whole trip. Maybe because I’ve never seen Old Faithful, or any other geyser for that matter, or because I shouted from surprise when it erupted, but I was a bit in awe by the mechanics of Earth and its natural beauty.

Day 3: Blue Lagoon and Half Day in Reykjavik

On Saturday, we woke up to a fresh foot of snow and were a tad nervous about making the drive from our Air BnB, in the-middle-of-nowhere, back to the Blue Lagoon and then Reykjavik. Needless to say, the driving wasn’t the best. Tip: if you visit during the winter, consider renting a SUV and/or getting a shovel.

We did eventually make it to the Blue Lagoon, but we didn’t buy tickets ahead of time and they were booked! Tip: make a reservation. It was disappointing, but we still got to walk around, see the lagoon, and snap a few pictures.

Later that afternoon we went to a packed yoga class at Sólir, which is one of my favorite things to do when traveling abroad. Something about not understanding a word the instructor is saying, but feeling united by a common language – a mix of Sanskrit and body language and movement – makes me feel connected to humans across the globe, or everywhere they practice yoga. Sólir had kombucha on tap, really neat swings in the waiting area, and a cold bath for yogis to cool down after class.

After checking into the Eyja Guldsmeden Hotel, which was lovely – we had a four post bed like the one advertised! – we made it to our dinner reservation at Food Cellar. Our candlelit table for two was romantic and the dinner was tasty. We ordered the Discover Iceland set menu, the baked cauliflower appetizer, and the Langoustine. The cauliflower was nothing special, but each of the courses in the Discover Iceland were incredible, especially the lamb. We swapped the dessert for the cinnamon bun cake with Toblerone ice cream, and it was possibly one of the best desserts I’ve ever had. Sweet tip: Order it. The bill came in an envelope labeled “the damage”, which was quite accurate, but arguably worth it for a gourmet meal at one of the best restaurants in town.

Day 4: Walking Tour in Reykjavik and Canceled Flight (And, a surprise!)

On Sunday morning, we joined a free walking tour in Reykjavik – one of my other favorite things to do when traveling. It was freezing outside, but the tour guide adjusted by adding indoor pit stops along the way. I learned that the ground in many of the streets and public parks and squares in Reykjavik is heated by a geothermal system that melts the snow as it falls and prevents ice accumulation and slippery conditions. Wish we had some geothermal activity in Buffalo! I also learned that some of the original settlers on the island cut down 60-80% of Iceland’s trees and… they never grew back. That’s one of the reasons why the island is so darn windy.

After the tour we headed back to the airport to return our rental car and catch our flight home only to learn that because of the incoming storm all of the flights in and out of Iceland were canceled. The airport was swarming with people, there was nowhere to sit, the line at the one food kiosk was a mile long, and all I could think was (first) I am too old to sleep on the floor of the airport, (second) we really are trapped in Iceland, and (third) does this mean that we can make a reservation at the Blue Lagoon?

Thankfully, we were able to re-rent our car, book another Air BnB close by, and… wait for it… make a reservation at the Blue Lagoon!

It was a once-in-a-lifetime experience for my husband and I to swim around in the Blue Lagoon together at dusk. We loved exploring all of the nooks and crannies, it was much larger than the Secret Lagoon, and finding the hot spots – since it was still freezing outside.

All in all, Iceland was good and refreshing. It tested our driving and passengering skills, we tried new foods – Puffin (I know! Don’t hate me), dried fish chips (they were gross), and lava cheese (it was good). I bought some stellar new gloves from 66 Degrees North because (1) the name reminded me of 43 North and, (2) they must be high-quality because they’re made in Iceland, right? I may recommend visiting in the warmer months so you can spend more time outdoors – hiking, exploring, etc., but we’re happy we went, it was a memorable time with the best of friends.

Surviving on Wine, Beer, and BBQ on the Bourbon Trail

Je t'aime, Québec